The entire full-frame image is displayed on my web site just as it came out of the camera. I don't crop or make any corrections until a print is ordered.Each print size will have it's own crop to conform to its dimensions and its ratio of height to width. A 4x6" print will be very close to a full-frame shape, for a tall-and-thin shape. A 5x7" print will lose about one inch in length. An 8x10" print will lose about two inches in length, for a short-and-wide shape. The crop may be tightened to "zoom-in" on a smaller area but the basic shape (the relationship between height and width) remains the same. Here are two comparitive examples:
I also try to crop for best composition and to highlight the main subject.
The print sizes that are listed match standard mat and frame sizes. However, any other size is possible but will require custom matting and framing. Just let me know what dimensions you want.
If you have a specific crop in mind, or just a question about cropping, feel free to ask when you are ordering.
Water, acid and sunlight are the villains that ruin prints over time. Any photographic print should be kept flat, dry and out of direct sunlight to protect the colors.You can mount your prints in any frame or album with acid-free ("archival") materials. It is best to use UV-filtered glass and a mat to give the most protection. A frame shop can mount your print on foam-core and add a bevel-cut mat before framing.
With proper care, any of my prints should last 60+ years without noticable fading or color shift.
NOTE: I do not recommend laminating poster prints. Larger prints have a real problem with bubbling and nothing can be done to repair or remove the lamination without ruining the poster. No print shop will guarantee that laminating will not ruin your print, and it's just best to avoid it. You can get a poster frame for the same cost as laminating and you won't risk ruining the poster in the process.
Stuff ... I carry equipment to a game or event that is roughly equivalent in cost to a new car. This stuff has an average lifespan of about five years. High quality action photos require specialized high-speed lenses and high-resolution digital cameras, and a lot of practice with each sport. This is one of the main reasons why I can get better player photos than parents at the same game, in the same position. Parents just don't have the stuff to shoot with.Focus ... I only watch the players' action through the lens, not the game. This is another reason why I can get better photos than a parent. I'm not invested in the game, just the shots.
Overhead ... I have to pay for professional lab printing, mileage to/from the lab, and spend time to process the orders and maintain this web site.
Compare ... if you go to camera store or photo lab with a straight-forward negative and get a 16x20" print, it will cost you $25-30 for a non-custom machine print. That doesn't include the shooting time, equipment, or customization that I provide.
Basically, I coordinate the pre-season schedule with the schools I work with. I will cover at least one varsity game for each sport, and fill the remaining schedule with as many additional games as I can.The volume of print orders for each sport also influences my priorities on the schedule ... teams with more order volume get more coverage.
If you have requests for specific game coverage, or non-varsity game coverage, contact me by email or by phone at 952-237-3585 to check on scheduling availability and cost. The earlier, the better for getting a chance to get scheduled.
I have limited server space available on the web, so I can't keep events posted forever.However, I keep all of the images permanently and can provide a preview CDROM to view past events for $10.00 (plus tax and s/h). The previews run in your browser, just like my web site. You can use these to order from events that are no longer posted on the internet.
Just send an email to me requesting a preview CDROM. Include the event description and approximate date, and your mailing address.
